In Ubud 23 years ago, the people I dealt with seemed more native I guess is a way to say it, not as changed by outside influences. Ketut was a young guy who worked at the place where we stayed. He'd come sit in my lap and talk to me. He climbed a tall coconut tree barefoot to get me a coconut. Employees would lie around and sleep when there was nothing to do. The kitchen was caked in rancid coconut oil and soot.